Monday 21 October 2013

British Lead and Speed Championships 2013

So it was that time of year again where the Lead and Speed Championships where just beyond the horizon. About a month or so before the event I had decided to enter the leading event as I had nothing to loose and if anything training for it would only help improve my bouldering. So I trained, several times a week for the month running up to it I had countless stamina sessions and laps around circuit boards until the weekend of competing was just around the corner.
Saturday started as any other comp day, I woke up got ready and drove to the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield. It was great to see the wall finished and it did look amazing, the place is huge! And they still have more to add to it?!?! I really can't wait to train there more in the future. So once I arrived I started reading my routes and was surprised by the fact I didn't feel too worried. I'd normally be nervous reading them, but it had really set in that this was all just going to be for fun. There was no pressure, and nothing to get worked up about like I would in the past. The first route looked quite soft and once I got on it I realised it really was. The holds where all positive and I climbed fast up to the last 3 moves where the crux was, it involved matching on a very thin hold then doing a big pull to the next hold. I rested for a moment and pulled through it and continued to top it out.
Route two - Photo Pete Wuensche
The next route looked a lot harder as it went up the side of their main overhang and was very long. I knew I'd have to fight for it to stand any chance of actually topping it but it looked like a fantastic climb so I got quite excited about the prospect of actually climbing it. I tied on, chalked up and started climbing. The routes went fairly smoothly until I realised I couldn't actually rest in any of the places I had previously decided to rest at. I stayed calm and continued climbing hoping I'd find somewhere to just relax at for even a moment, but no such place seemed to arrive. I started to get pumped and my elbows began to slowly point out, I surprised myself by getting much further than I thought I would by fighting through the pump for a good few moves until I arrived at the traverse out onto the roof before my arms gave out and I fell. This luckily put me in just a high enough position to scrape into the finals in 4th place.
Final route - Photo Pete Wuensche

Next up all the finalists went into isolation to wait for the finals to start. This was arguably the best isolation I've ever had as there was so much room! Everyone had space to climb and warm up, it really helped me to stay relaxed and warm. After going out for our observation period to view the final climb I had a long wait till my group could start. I repeatedly ran though my sequence for the climb until it was time to climb. I walked out and pulled onto the route. It immediately felt hard for me as again I couldn't rest, I hadn't built up enough stamina in the month previous to be able to climb for that long. I managed alright but the pump took over and as I deadpointed for a hold I didn't sink it deep enough and slid off it unable to correct myself. So overall I finished 4th, but I was pleased with this as I didn't think I'd stand much of a chance before hand.
Myself, Jonny White and Will Smith discussing our final route - Photo Pete Wuensche
Sunday was over to the the senior lead event and the speed climbing. I had decided to not bother entering the lead event since I didn't really care for it that much and I'd rather do well in the speed. After a very long wait before I could start the speed climbing finally kicked off, but this year was different for me as I was competing in the senior category... I took it seriously and isolated myself in the bouldering wall to warm up, finding easy climbs to practice sprinting up followed by shuttle runs across the room. I did this for around half an hour, then our practice runs on the actual speed wall began. My times where average for me, getting around 10.5 seconds. Once they where over the qualifications began. My first run I got a time of 10.61 seconds, my second 10.26 seconds. This placed me into the next round in first place. I still was not pleased with my time as I knew I could go much faster, wishing I'd been aloud more practice runs before hand I tried to work out what my issue could be. I listed them in my head: I haven't been on a speed wall in months, My footwork was off and I was missing holds, I was nervous. So I sat and calmed myself down and decided to focus on placing my feet every time I climbed making sure they landed on every hold. My next run I once again got 10.26 seconds which placed me into the quarter finals in 1st. Stressed that I hadn't improved even though I'd been staying focused I lost my calm and got 11.05 seconds. Alarm bells started to ring in my head that I was doing something wrong until I realised what the real issue was. I was expecting too much of myself. I was convinced I could do better when maybe after some time off, I physically couldn't? So I calmed myself down once again and focused on just making it up the wall with a smile on my face. As it happens I'd gotten to the semi finals in 1st once again and on my next run something clicked. I don't know if it was because I'd finally accepted that maybe I couldn't do better or that I truly was focused now but I'd sped up. A lot. I raced up the wall in 9.37 seconds, leaving my opponent way behind in the process. Content that I'd got a new personal best and truly hadn't lost and speed on the wall I was finally happy and moved into the finals confident on going even faster. I was keen and I think everyone else was too, curious if I really could go faster. Ready at the bottom of the wall for my final race of the day, I placed my hands and right foot on the wall waiting to start. The time had started and I left the floor, slowly at first but confident now. My feet hit the holds and I started to storm up the wall, getting faster and faster until I hit the top and my time was called out. Horns blowing and people cheering my time was called out... 9.17 seconds! I new personal best! And also unknown to many people another British Record... But the truth is I know I can go faster. Much faster. And with Awesome Walls opened now only an hour and a half away from me I don't think it will take much longer until I do. I'm planning on training as much as I can there and I'm not going to stop until I'm as fast as I can be.
Calum Forsyth 2nd, Myself 1st and Tom Bonnert 3rd - Photo Matteus Barefoot

Full BMC report of the event and results here

And here is a video of my final race, courtesy of my Dad!

Thanks for reading, stay psyched!

Thursday 17 October 2013

Summer of Crush Part 3

But my trip to Font did not conclude my Summer I'm afraid. You see I got a real taste for outdoor climbing during my trips to the Peak and Font and I couldn't seem to get enough of it. So I adventured further... There is a local crag to me which has recently gained popularity known as Forest Rock and I took multiple trips there to try and tick some of the hard new climbs which have been put up, My first goal was Cracked up 7b+, I was really keen to flash this as I'd never flashed something so hard and it looked within my ability but allas I was lead astray by false tickmarks... And in the end it went third go. Next on the list was Own Narrative 7c, this is a cool power problem straight of an overhanging wall. After some working I managed to power through it and matched the finishing hold, pleased with my efforts I decided to give Enchantress 7c+ an attempt. I've been keen to try this for a long time and was so happy to finally be climbing it. But it's hard, and sadly my biceps where no match for it. The thing with climbing at Forest Rock is that it's basically jug hauling but most the holds are undercuts from above so it's all very powerful.
Enchantress 7c+

A few days later I returned with Tom who has never actually been there before even though he lives equally as close to there as I. He was keen to give cracked up an attempt as he wanted to finally break his boundary and get a 7b+ done. And after some working, he did! It was great and I think he's pretty pleased about it. I spent most my time working a problem called Magician 7c/+ I had done the stand start known as Sorcerer Direct 6c+ a few years ago and was keen to give this powerful monster a go. It did not disappoint, it was ridiculously hard for me but after a few hours it went and I was beyond pleased!

Ticklist:
Magician 7c/+
Own Narrative 7c
Cracked up 7b+

Down by the beach...
Once again... It does not end there... I still had that thirst for real rock, it wouldn't go away. It felt like I was addicted, I couldn't rest. I couldn't spend a single day without looking in a guide looking for somewhere to go. I just wanted to be out, on my own, with friends, it didn't matter anymore. I needed to be on rock. Luckily, Jonny was keen. So within a couple days I was packed and headed to Parisella's cave with him. The main goal was to do Rock Atrocity 7c and once we arrived after a short warm up, that's what I did! I worked out the moves and pulled on, I was so excited to be on this classic Moffatt line. The moves felt great just pulling through the roof but sadly I dropped off the last hold like so many people before me. I worked the move from there and found a simple sequence through it but every time I pulled on I forgot it! After four or five attempts though it finally went. I was pleased, the next day could be what ever I wanted it to be now.
Later on I managed Clever Beaver 7a+ and was surprised! I thought I'd enjoy climbing here much more than I did, with it being limestone. But I couldn't get on with anything until our second day where we where already tired from trying all the hard climbs there we realised there's a fantastic extension to Rock Atrocity called Hatch Attrocity V11 and it felt amazing! We both did it in two halves but where too tired to really finish it off. So that's the plan. I will go back one day soon and climb it! I'm pleased with all the projects I've found for myself and that last trip to Parisella's really calmed the fire inside me that was craving the real rock... For now...

Ticklist:
Rock Atrocity 7c
Clever Beaver 7b+

Summer of Crush Part 2

After a weeks rest from the Peak District I had packed my bags once again and was heading to Fontainebleau for the second time this year. Before leaving I had set myself some goals while there and unfortunately they didn't go to plan, I have been trying to understand why and in the end I think it was a mix of me not being physically strong enough and it being way too hot for me. But even though I did not manage what I had hoped for it was an amazing trip and I am proud of what I achieved in the end.

Day One
Not long after arriving at our Gite we had decided to head out to a nearby crag and have a short session before heading home and going to bed as we had been travelling all day. The nearest place we found was a small place called Rocher Greau. It was dark once we arrived and the bugs had started to appear and where biting us left, right and center. I had a play at some 6's which where fun then tried my hand at classic 7c called Megalithe. I gave it a good few goes and eventually found some progression on it, but with the bugs attacking me, tiredness from the days drive and the rock feeling greasy from the heat I eventually had to call it a day and not long after that we all left.

Day 2
Partage 8a+
Buthiers was the destination as I strongly believed everyone would have fun trying Magic Bus 7b which I had done in Easter during my last trip. Once we arrived put the pads under I gave it a go and got my foot sequence wrong and fell on the last hard move. After a couple minutes rest I got on it again and sent it, soon after this Jonny and Tom also managed it got their first good tick for the week. Not long after this I went on a hunt to find Partage 8a+ which I knew was nearby. I think I knew I'd never do it, but I was still psyched to give it a good go. Once I found it I realised there was a 7a next to it called Attention Chef d'Oeuvre which looked like a cool line. Once I found them I ran back to the others to see if I could convince anyone to come down and try them and to see if I could take some of our pads too. Jonny and Tom followed and I ran on ahead with a pad way too keen to get on the 7a. I arrived got my boots on, chalked up and pulled on with only one pad... Being a relatively highball line this probably wasn't the best of ideas and as I climbed and threw for the last hold I realised it was, slipping out of the slopper part of it I yelped and fell to the floor landing one foot on the pad the other on the floor. Jonny and Tom rushed round expecting to find me broken on the floor yet somehow I was fine, I tested my foot and was shocked. I think from now on I might try and be a bit more sensible when it comes to pads and spotters... After a few more attempts I eventually sent it and then moved on to give Partage a few attempts, I knew I couldn't spend long on it as my skin was really poor and already shredding. I worked out some beta so I could actually get off the floor but with the tiny holds and it being too hot I couldn't get any further, I think this is one I'm going to save for when it's colder. From there we went on a hunt to find  more boulders and eventually came across Lady Big Claque 7a, which was a pretty inspiring overhanging line slapping round corners to catch the holds. I pulled on and just missed a hold near the top, after a short rest I got on and managed it fairly easily.

Day Three 
L'Ange Gardien 7c
We headed to Bas Cuvier and after trying my hand at many climbs I eventually found Quartier Chaud 7a+ which climbed a highball arete with a dodgey landing. After a few attempts I managed to get past where I had been falling and pulled up to the thankfully easy top out. I gained some motivation after this and tried the highball 7c slab around the corner from it called L'Ange Gardien I was constantly finding progression on this getting higher each time until eventually I could climb no higher, I struggled to hold on to the tiny holds and found my feet slipping off the microscopic features. I eventually realised I was wasting valuable skin and gave up, but not before flashing a couple 6's around the corner from it...







Day Four
We started out heading to Rocher Canon to give Levitation 7a+ an attempt, I was super keen to flash this and spent the evening before watching videos and finding out everything I could about it. After getting lost trying to find it we eventually came across it and started to warm up. I watched everyone give it a few goes and worked out what I thought was the best way. I pulled up and instantly knew I was not warm enough, I climbed shakily and felt tense and when throwing around the top for a pocket to top out on I slipped and got frustrated with myself. After a rest and some shaking out I once again pulled on and got it second attempt.
After a while we gave up looking for problems and went to Franchard Isatis where I managed Mur Lombard 7a+ on my second attempt, it was a fantastic vertical wall with thin holds going straight up it It would have been amazing to flash but I was still pleased to manage such a fantastic line. After that I managed Lapin ou Canard 7a 2nd attempt and shortly after flashed a strange 6c called La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique.

Day Five
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a
After another lazy morning, we got up and headed to Cul De Chien where we headed straight to Le Toit du Cul De Chien, also known as Cul De Chien Roof 7a. After seriously warming up (I was very commited to flashing this) we sorted the pads out and Jonny was first up. I was paying attention to every move he made as much as possible and sadly he slipped, but I believe he has done it before so it wasn't too bad. Next I stood up to it, pulled on and felt amazed at the moves, they where fantastic. After reaching round the lip I realised I was better off campusing as there where no good foot holds really. I'm particularly proud of this flash. We tried a supposedly 7a slab called Belle Lurette further back a little while later which I disappointingly got 2nd go. After getting bored at Cul De Chien we walked back to Rocher Aux Sabots with the aim of trying Jet Set 7a and Graviton 7a. We all had a bit of trouble working out the footwork for Jet Set but once we discovered it almost everyone managed it. What a brilliant climb! Next we moved to Graviton, where I was once again, keen for the flash and after watching everyone on it for a while I gave it a go. It was a real struggle, I felt my forearms pump out on it as I clearly hadn't paid enough attention, but luckily I gave it a good fight and came out on top. I spent a long time working a 7c on the back of the Graviton boulder (Can't seem to find the name unfortunately) and felt very close, but I've came to realise the last move is actually the crux of the boulder. And I have a Feeling lots of people have "came close" to finishing that problem... Moving on from my disappointment with it we walked up to Bioethique 7a+ which I felt must be soft as I flashed it with ease.

Day Six
We headed back to Franchard Isatis as there was lots for everyone to do there and it turned out to be a good decision because everyone got something done! First up on my list was Ah Plus Facile 7a+ which I couldn't quite manage a couple days prior. But after some more working I came out with a better sequence for myself and managed it. After I managed two other 7a's called Panzer and Abdolobotmoy. Later that night, me Tom, Tash and Jen headed out to Drei Zennin to have a spot of night bouldering. The aim was to find Diversion, 7b that I did in Easter so Tash could try and finish it and Tom and Jen could give it a go. Somehow my navigational skills turned super human and in pitch black late at night I led us straight to the climb! We where all in shock as my skills at finding climbs so far had been below average... After spending a while working it out I got it down again and cruised it and soon after Tom managed it too. Tash got a lot further and Jen put up a good fight, hopefully they will get in next time.

Day Seven
The aim was to go to 95.2, it took us a while but we eventually found it but it was so hot and had very limited problems. I managed Retour Aux Sources 7a after a few attempts which I was pleased about, it was tough in the heat. From there we just sort of walked around and got lost, eventually finding ourselves at the edge of an area known as Rocher Des Souris where we found an amazing Morpho problem called Vis-a-Vis, words can't describe this climb if I'm honest it looked easy, the holds where huge. But it was just such an odd climb! I'm pleased to have even managed it! If you ever manage to find it, I highly recommend it. Finally we came across a small boulder with a 6c+ called Yoga on it. I wasn't too keen for it but the 7b I was working ended up being too hard and I managed to flash Yoga instead! To end the trip we all agreed to go out night bouldering at Canche Aux Mercies, where one of my nemesis's from the easter trip lurked. La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b. I thought it would be a good sport for everyone as the original version of this problem was a great 7a+ for everyone. Props to Jonny for not only flashing the 7a+ but then stepping it up and flashing the 7b too, It got me so psyched as I could not manage the 7b at all but after seeing him manage it, I pulled on and topped it! A good success to end the trip with!

And that concluded to amazing trip to The wonderful forest of Fontainebleau. Overall I was quite pleased with what I managed, it would have been nice to get some harder climbs but you can't have everything you want so I'm going to take pleasure in the fact I had a great holiday with some amazing friends!

Ticklist:

La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b
Ah Plus Facile 7a+
Bioethique 7a+ FLASH
Mur Lombard 7a+ 2nd go
Levitation 7a+ 2nd go
Lady Big Claque 7a+ 2nd go
Quartier Chaud 7a+
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre 7a
Lapin ou Canard 7a
Jet Set 7a
Graviton 7a FLASH
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a FLASH
Belle Lurette 7a
Abdolobotomy 7a
Panzer 7a
Vis-a-Vis 7a


Summer of Crush Part 3