Thursday 17 October 2013

Summer of Crush Part 3

But my trip to Font did not conclude my Summer I'm afraid. You see I got a real taste for outdoor climbing during my trips to the Peak and Font and I couldn't seem to get enough of it. So I adventured further... There is a local crag to me which has recently gained popularity known as Forest Rock and I took multiple trips there to try and tick some of the hard new climbs which have been put up, My first goal was Cracked up 7b+, I was really keen to flash this as I'd never flashed something so hard and it looked within my ability but allas I was lead astray by false tickmarks... And in the end it went third go. Next on the list was Own Narrative 7c, this is a cool power problem straight of an overhanging wall. After some working I managed to power through it and matched the finishing hold, pleased with my efforts I decided to give Enchantress 7c+ an attempt. I've been keen to try this for a long time and was so happy to finally be climbing it. But it's hard, and sadly my biceps where no match for it. The thing with climbing at Forest Rock is that it's basically jug hauling but most the holds are undercuts from above so it's all very powerful.
Enchantress 7c+

A few days later I returned with Tom who has never actually been there before even though he lives equally as close to there as I. He was keen to give cracked up an attempt as he wanted to finally break his boundary and get a 7b+ done. And after some working, he did! It was great and I think he's pretty pleased about it. I spent most my time working a problem called Magician 7c/+ I had done the stand start known as Sorcerer Direct 6c+ a few years ago and was keen to give this powerful monster a go. It did not disappoint, it was ridiculously hard for me but after a few hours it went and I was beyond pleased!

Ticklist:
Magician 7c/+
Own Narrative 7c
Cracked up 7b+

Down by the beach...
Once again... It does not end there... I still had that thirst for real rock, it wouldn't go away. It felt like I was addicted, I couldn't rest. I couldn't spend a single day without looking in a guide looking for somewhere to go. I just wanted to be out, on my own, with friends, it didn't matter anymore. I needed to be on rock. Luckily, Jonny was keen. So within a couple days I was packed and headed to Parisella's cave with him. The main goal was to do Rock Atrocity 7c and once we arrived after a short warm up, that's what I did! I worked out the moves and pulled on, I was so excited to be on this classic Moffatt line. The moves felt great just pulling through the roof but sadly I dropped off the last hold like so many people before me. I worked the move from there and found a simple sequence through it but every time I pulled on I forgot it! After four or five attempts though it finally went. I was pleased, the next day could be what ever I wanted it to be now.
Later on I managed Clever Beaver 7a+ and was surprised! I thought I'd enjoy climbing here much more than I did, with it being limestone. But I couldn't get on with anything until our second day where we where already tired from trying all the hard climbs there we realised there's a fantastic extension to Rock Atrocity called Hatch Attrocity V11 and it felt amazing! We both did it in two halves but where too tired to really finish it off. So that's the plan. I will go back one day soon and climb it! I'm pleased with all the projects I've found for myself and that last trip to Parisella's really calmed the fire inside me that was craving the real rock... For now...

Ticklist:
Rock Atrocity 7c
Clever Beaver 7b+

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