May The Odds Be Ever In Your Favour?

Two weeks ago was the European Youth Speed Climbing Championships in Ratho. So in preparation for the event I had an easy week with only one easy session at the wall. The day of qualification arrived and I started warming up, building the psych, adrenaline and excitement. Then disaster struck.

While practising some dynamic moves to get my body into the swing of all things speed I pulled my tricep. Panicing I tried to ignore it and did some sprinting hoping it would lay off... Still nothing, I got a massage and had it taped up which seemed to improve it ever so slightly. I tried to have my first practice run on the wall and realised I couldn't climb at all.

And that was it! The end of my last competition as a junior on the GB Team.

After a week of good physio and being very careful doing the best I could to help it recover I felt maybe I would actually be ready and fit to compete in the British Bouldering Championships. So the day came around that I looked forward to more than any other day of the year and I really believed I was fit!
After warming up I was ready to go out and climb, being ranked 6th at the start I was up to climb 3rd. So I had an early start!
Problem 1 - A techy slab involving a slightly balance orientated sequence that I just wasn't prepared for on the day. My head wasn't in gear I was afraid of pushing my shoulder and just wasn't ready to commit. So sadly no top for, me just a bonus.
Problem 2 - Thuggish climbing on volumes revolving catching small holds on the corners to try and progress higher up. Still afraid to really push I just couldn't get up it, I wasn't able to catch the holds and was basically just flailing around the wall...

Pressing out the first move of Problem 3
Photo - Phil Waterhouse

Problem 3 - Had a very powerful shouldery move to start which on my first go I managed to power through it! But fluffed the end by forgetting to use an obvious hold. Three attempts later I got past that dreaded first move and finally topped the climb.
Problem 4 - A straight forward power problem up volumes and a steep wall. Being unable to figure out the start for a few attempts I finally got past it and was up there ready to throw for the last hold and I just powered out... After that I got no further....
Problem 5 - A vertical wall involving a jump right to a volume then carefully balancing across to the bonus hold and a careful reach to the awful last hold. Luckily by this time I was in gear and ready for it. My style. After 3 attempts I finally held that last hold, dropping it the turn before!

Problem 1
Photo - Phil Waterhouse

I managed to scrape into the semi finals in joint 9th, a pleasant surprise as I really thought I hadn't made the cut.
The next day I woke up, feeling sore, weak and slowly dying from Hay Fever. But I couldn't focus on the factors that just held me back. I had to be ready, motivated and psyched to send!
Problem 1 - Another slab! With an awkward start, that luckily for me I figured out this time. But perhaps a few too many attempts...

Getting up there on Problem 1
Photo - Alex Messenger

Problem 2 - Flexible and powerful climbing around volumes that I just couldn't quite nack! I felt so close, but the answer to the end sequence just eluded me...
Problem 3 - Aggressive climbing up an overhang on poor volumes that honestly I think I was just too weak for.
Problem 4 - Well. This didn't go well. And I think it showed, I couldn't even pull off the floor and after what felt like a lifetime of embarrassing my self in front of everyone I couldn't take it any more and finished for thirty seconds still to go...

In the end I finished 14th place, not as good as my result last year but having had time to contemplate the event and my performance I'm still quite pleased. The odds where not in my favour all weekend and I tried my hardest to fight through them and didn't perform too bad.
And to top it off now I'm competing in the senior event I will always have the next year unlike competing in junior events where you will be moving age groups ever 2 years, a very unforgiving environment. I will not miss competing as a junior. I had a rough time going through it dealing with psychological set backs as well as physical in most events and then never having a second chance because I became too old for that age category.

It may take me five, ten, fifteen or even twenty years. But I am always going to be chasing my life goal of becoming the British Bouldering Champion.

Full report and results from the BMC here.

Replays of all rounds below.

A few days after the event I received the package I've been anxiously waiting for this year. The Evolv Nexxo. I've been a fan of Evolv since I first pulled on a pair of Shamans back in January 2012. I've gone through a few shoe brands since I started climbing such as Boreal and 5.10 and although at the time I felt their shoes suited me well none ever gave me the feeling I got when I first pulled on an Evolv shoe. I do not believe there is a "best" shoe in the world but for me nothing could top Evolv, I find I get a lot out of the rubber and the shape of the shoes suits my foot shape perfectly. I've always been able to pull on a brand new pair and they just feel right from day 1. Linked in with the Love Bump and Knuckle Box I feel Evolv has found the balance between very high performance climbing and comfort. And I believe they are key factors. Because you won't be pushing your hardest if you are in pain due to tight, agonising shoes.

I initial impressions of the Nexxo's are great and I feel Evolv has done it again creating a high performance shoe that doesn't lack comfort/ I'm looking forward to many sessions to come climbing in them.

Thanks Beyond Hope Climbing yet again for your fantastic support!