British Lead and Speed Championships 2013

So it was that time of year again where the Lead and Speed Championships where just beyond the horizon. About a month or so before the event I had decided to enter the leading event as I had nothing to loose and if anything training for it would only help improve my bouldering. So I trained, several times a week for the month running up to it I had countless stamina sessions and laps around circuit boards until the weekend of competing was just around the corner.
Saturday started as any other comp day, I woke up got ready and drove to the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield. It was great to see the wall finished and it did look amazing, the place is huge! And they still have more to add to it?!?! I really can't wait to train there more in the future. So once I arrived I started reading my routes and was surprised by the fact I didn't feel too worried. I'd normally be nervous reading them, but it had really set in that this was all just going to be for fun. There was no pressure, and nothing to get worked up about like I would in the past. The first route looked quite soft and once I got on it I realised it really was. The holds where all positive and I climbed fast up to the last 3 moves where the crux was, it involved matching on a very thin hold then doing a big pull to the next hold. I rested for a moment and pulled through it and continued to top it out.

Route two - Photo Pete Wuensche

The next route looked a lot harder as it went up the side of their main overhang and was very long. I knew I'd have to fight for it to stand any chance of actually topping it but it looked like a fantastic climb so I got quite excited about the prospect of actually climbing it. I tied on, chalked up and started climbing. The routes went fairly smoothly until I realised I couldn't actually rest in any of the places I had previously decided to rest at. I stayed calm and continued climbing hoping I'd find somewhere to just relax at for even a moment, but no such place seemed to arrive. I started to get pumped and my elbows began to slowly point out, I surprised myself by getting much further than I thought I would by fighting through the pump for a good few moves until I arrived at the traverse out onto the roof before my arms gave out and I fell. This luckily put me in just a high enough position to scrape into the finals in 4th place.

Final route - Photo Pete Wuensche

Next up all the finalists went into isolation to wait for the finals to start. This was arguably the best isolation I've ever had as there was so much room! Everyone had space to climb and warm up, it really helped me to stay relaxed and warm. After going out for our observation period to view the final climb I had a long wait till my group could start. I repeatedly ran though my sequence for the climb until it was time to climb. I walked out and pulled onto the route. It immediately felt hard for me as again I couldn't rest, I hadn't built up enough stamina in the month previous to be able to climb for that long. I managed alright but the pump took over and as I deadpointed for a hold I didn't sink it deep enough and slid off it unable to correct myself. So overall I finished 4th, but I was pleased with this as I didn't think I'd stand much of a chance before hand.

Myself, Jonny White and Will Smith discussing our final route - Photo Pete Wuensche

Sunday was over to the the senior lead event and the speed climbing. I had decided to not bother entering the lead event since I didn't really care for it that much and I'd rather do well in the speed. After a very long wait before I could start the speed climbing finally kicked off, but this year was different for me as I was competing in the senior category... I took it seriously and isolated myself in the bouldering wall to warm up, finding easy climbs to practice sprinting up followed by shuttle runs across the room. I did this for around half an hour, then our practice runs on the actual speed wall began. My times where average for me, getting around 10.5 seconds. Once they where over the qualifications began. My first run I got a time of 10.61 seconds, my second 10.26 seconds. This placed me into the next round in first place. I still was not pleased with my time as I knew I could go much faster, wishing I'd been aloud more practice runs before hand I tried to work out what my issue could be. I listed them in my head: I haven't been on a speed wall in months, My footwork was off and I was missing holds, I was nervous. So I sat and calmed myself down and decided to focus on placing my feet every time I climbed making sure they landed on every hold. My next run I once again got 10.26 seconds which placed me into the quarter finals in 1st. Stressed that I hadn't improved even though I'd been staying focused I lost my calm and got 11.05 seconds. Alarm bells started to ring in my head that I was doing something wrong until I realised what the real issue was. I was expecting too much of myself. I was convinced I could do better when maybe after some time off, I physically couldn't? So I calmed myself down once again and focused on just making it up the wall with a smile on my face. As it happens I'd gotten to the semi finals in 1st once again and on my next run something clicked. I don't know if it was because I'd finally accepted that maybe I couldn't do better or that I truly was focused now but I'd sped up. A lot. I raced up the wall in 9.37 seconds, leaving my opponent way behind in the process. Content that I'd got a new personal best and truly hadn't lost and speed on the wall I was finally happy and moved into the finals confident on going even faster. I was keen and I think everyone else was too, curious if I really could go faster. Ready at the bottom of the wall for my final race of the day, I placed my hands and right foot on the wall waiting to start. The time had started and I left the floor, slowly at first but confident now. My feet hit the holds and I started to storm up the wall, getting faster and faster until I hit the top and my time was called out. Horns blowing and people cheering my time was called out... 9.17 seconds! I new personal best! And also unknown to many people another British Record... But the truth is I know I can go faster. Much faster. And with Awesome Walls opened now only an hour and a half away from me I don't think it will take much longer until I do. I'm planning on training as much as I can there and I'm not going to stop until I'm as fast as I can be.

Calum Forsyth 2nd, Myself 1st and Tom Bonnert 3rd - Photo Matteus Barefoot

Full BMC report of the event and results here

And here is a video of my final race, courtesy of my Dad!

Thanks for reading, stay psyched!

Summer of Crush Part 3

But my trip to Font did not conclude my Summer I'm afraid. You see I got a real taste for outdoor climbing during my trips to the Peak and Font and I couldn't seem to get enough of it. So I adventured further... There is a local crag to me which has recently gained popularity known as Forest Rock and I took multiple trips there to try and tick some of the hard new climbs which have been put up, My first goal was Cracked up 7b+, I was really keen to flash this as I'd never flashed something so hard and it looked within my ability but allas I was lead astray by false tickmarks... And in the end it went third go. Next on the list was Own Narrative 7c, this is a cool power problem straight of an overhanging wall. After some working I managed to power through it and matched the finishing hold, pleased with my efforts I decided to give Enchantress 7c+ an attempt. I've been keen to try this for a long time and was so happy to finally be climbing it. But it's hard, and sadly my biceps where no match for it. The thing with climbing at Forest Rock is that it's basically jug hauling but most the holds are undercuts from above so it's all very powerful.

Enchantress 7c+

A few days later I returned with Tom who has never actually been there before even though he lives equally as close to there as I. He was keen to give cracked up an attempt as he wanted to finally break his boundary and get a 7b+ done. And after some working, he did! It was great and I think he's pretty pleased about it. I spent most my time working a problem called Magician 7c/+ I had done the stand start known as Sorcerer Direct 6c+ a few years ago and was keen to give this powerful monster a go. It did not disappoint, it was ridiculously hard for me but after a few hours it went and I was beyond pleased!

Ticklist:
Magician 7c/+
Own Narrative 7c
Cracked up 7b+

Down by the beach...

Once again... It does not end there... I still had that thirst for real rock, it wouldn't go away. It felt like I was addicted, I couldn't rest. I couldn't spend a single day without looking in a guide looking for somewhere to go. I just wanted to be out, on my own, with friends, it didn't matter anymore. I needed to be on rock. Luckily, Jonny was keen. So within a couple days I was packed and headed to Parisella's cave with him. The main goal was to do Rock Atrocity 7c and once we arrived after a short warm up, that's what I did! I worked out the moves and pulled on, I was so excited to be on this classic Moffatt line. The moves felt great just pulling through the roof but sadly I dropped off the last hold like so many people before me. I worked the move from there and found a simple sequence through it but every time I pulled on I forgot it! After four or five attempts though it finally went. I was pleased, the next day could be what ever I wanted it to be now.
Later on I managed Clever Beaver 7a+ and was surprised! I thought I'd enjoy climbing here much more than I did, with it being limestone. But I couldn't get on with anything until our second day where we where already tired from trying all the hard climbs there we realised there's a fantastic extension to Rock Atrocity called Hatch Attrocity V11 and it felt amazing! We both did it in two halves but where too tired to really finish it off. So that's the plan. I will go back one day soon and climb it! I'm pleased with all the projects I've found for myself and that last trip to Parisella's really calmed the fire inside me that was craving the real rock... For now...

Ticklist:
Rock Atrocity 7c
Clever Beaver 7b+

Summer of Crush Part 2

After a weeks rest from the Peak District I had packed my bags once again and was heading to Fontainebleau for the second time this year. Before leaving I had set myself some goals while there and unfortunately they didn't go to plan, I have been trying to understand why and in the end I think it was a mix of me not being physically strong enough and it being way too hot for me. But even though I did not manage what I had hoped for it was an amazing trip and I am proud of what I achieved in the end.

Day One
Not long after arriving at our Gite we had decided to head out to a nearby crag and have a short session before heading home and going to bed as we had been travelling all day. The nearest place we found was a small place called Rocher Greau. It was dark once we arrived and the bugs had started to appear and where biting us left, right and center. I had a play at some 6's which where fun then tried my hand at classic 7c called Megalithe. I gave it a good few goes and eventually found some progression on it, but with the bugs attacking me, tiredness from the days drive and the rock feeling greasy from the heat I eventually had to call it a day and not long after that we all left.

Day 2

Partage 8a+

Buthiers was the destination as I strongly believed everyone would have fun trying Magic Bus 7b which I had done in Easter during my last trip. Once we arrived put the pads under I gave it a go and got my foot sequence wrong and fell on the last hard move. After a couple minutes rest I got on it again and sent it, soon after this Jonny and Tom also managed it got their first good tick for the week. Not long after this I went on a hunt to find Partage 8a+ which I knew was nearby. I think I knew I'd never do it, but I was still psyched to give it a good go. Once I found it I realised there was a 7a next to it called Attention Chef d'Oeuvre which looked like a cool line. Once I found them I ran back to the others to see if I could convince anyone to come down and try them and to see if I could take some of our pads too. Jonny and Tom followed and I ran on ahead with a pad way too keen to get on the 7a. I arrived got my boots on, chalked up and pulled on with only one pad... Being a relatively highball line this probably wasn't the best of ideas and as I climbed and threw for the last hold I realised it was, slipping out of the slopper part of it I yelped and fell to the floor landing one foot on the pad the other on the floor. Jonny and Tom rushed round expecting to find me broken on the floor yet somehow I was fine, I tested my foot and was shocked. I think from now on I might try and be a bit more sensible when it comes to pads and spotters... After a few more attempts I eventually sent it and then moved on to give Partage a few attempts, I knew I couldn't spend long on it as my skin was really poor and already shredding. I worked out some beta so I could actually get off the floor but with the tiny holds and it being too hot I couldn't get any further, I think this is one I'm going to save for when it's colder. From there we went on a hunt to find  more boulders and eventually came across Lady Big Claque 7a, which was a pretty inspiring overhanging line slapping round corners to catch the holds. I pulled on and just missed a hold near the top, after a short rest I got on and managed it fairly easily.

Day Three 

L'Ange Gardien 7c

We headed to Bas Cuvier and after trying my hand at many climbs I eventually found Quartier Chaud 7a+ which climbed a highball arete with a dodgey landing. After a few attempts I managed to get past where I had been falling and pulled up to the thankfully easy top out. I gained some motivation after this and tried the highball 7c slab around the corner from it called L'Ange Gardien I was constantly finding progression on this getting higher each time until eventually I could climb no higher, I struggled to hold on to the tiny holds and found my feet slipping off the microscopic features. I eventually realised I was wasting valuable skin and gave up, but not before flashing a couple 6's around the corner from it...







Day Four
We started out heading to Rocher Canon to give Levitation 7a+ an attempt, I was super keen to flash this and spent the evening before watching videos and finding out everything I could about it. After getting lost trying to find it we eventually came across it and started to warm up. I watched everyone give it a few goes and worked out what I thought was the best way. I pulled up and instantly knew I was not warm enough, I climbed shakily and felt tense and when throwing around the top for a pocket to top out on I slipped and got frustrated with myself. After a rest and some shaking out I once again pulled on and got it second attempt.
After a while we gave up looking for problems and went to Franchard Isatis where I managed Mur Lombard 7a+ on my second attempt, it was a fantastic vertical wall with thin holds going straight up it It would have been amazing to flash but I was still pleased to manage such a fantastic line. After that I managed Lapin ou Canard 7a 2nd attempt and shortly after flashed a strange 6c called La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique.

Day Five

Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a

After another lazy morning, we got up and headed to Cul De Chien where we headed straight to Le Toit du Cul De Chien, also known as Cul De Chien Roof 7a. After seriously warming up (I was very commited to flashing this) we sorted the pads out and Jonny was first up. I was paying attention to every move he made as much as possible and sadly he slipped, but I believe he has done it before so it wasn't too bad. Next I stood up to it, pulled on and felt amazed at the moves, they where fantastic. After reaching round the lip I realised I was better off campusing as there where no good foot holds really. I'm particularly proud of this flash. We tried a supposedly 7a slab called Belle Lurette further back a little while later which I disappointingly got 2nd go. After getting bored at Cul De Chien we walked back to Rocher Aux Sabots with the aim of trying Jet Set 7a and Graviton 7a. We all had a bit of trouble working out the footwork for Jet Set but once we discovered it almost everyone managed it. What a brilliant climb! Next we moved to Graviton, where I was once again, keen for the flash and after watching everyone on it for a while I gave it a go. It was a real struggle, I felt my forearms pump out on it as I clearly hadn't paid enough attention, but luckily I gave it a good fight and came out on top. I spent a long time working a 7c on the back of the Graviton boulder (Can't seem to find the name unfortunately) and felt very close, but I've came to realise the last move is actually the crux of the boulder. And I have a Feeling lots of people have "came close" to finishing that problem... Moving on from my disappointment with it we walked up to Bioethique 7a+ which I felt must be soft as I flashed it with ease.

Day Six
We headed back to Franchard Isatis as there was lots for everyone to do there and it turned out to be a good decision because everyone got something done! First up on my list was Ah Plus Facile 7a+ which I couldn't quite manage a couple days prior. But after some more working I came out with a better sequence for myself and managed it. After I managed two other 7a's called Panzer and Abdolobotmoy. Later that night, me Tom, Tash and Jen headed out to Drei Zennin to have a spot of night bouldering. The aim was to find Diversion, 7b that I did in Easter so Tash could try and finish it and Tom and Jen could give it a go. Somehow my navigational skills turned super human and in pitch black late at night I led us straight to the climb! We where all in shock as my skills at finding climbs so far had been below average... After spending a while working it out I got it down again and cruised it and soon after Tom managed it too. Tash got a lot further and Jen put up a good fight, hopefully they will get in next time.

Day Seven
The aim was to go to 95.2, it took us a while but we eventually found it but it was so hot and had very limited problems. I managed Retour Aux Sources 7a after a few attempts which I was pleased about, it was tough in the heat. From there we just sort of walked around and got lost, eventually finding ourselves at the edge of an area known as Rocher Des Souris where we found an amazing Morpho problem called Vis-a-Vis, words can't describe this climb if I'm honest it looked easy, the holds where huge. But it was just such an odd climb! I'm pleased to have even managed it! If you ever manage to find it, I highly recommend it. Finally we came across a small boulder with a 6c+ called Yoga on it. I wasn't too keen for it but the 7b I was working ended up being too hard and I managed to flash Yoga instead! To end the trip we all agreed to go out night bouldering at Canche Aux Mercies, where one of my nemesis's from the easter trip lurked. La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b. I thought it would be a good sport for everyone as the original version of this problem was a great 7a+ for everyone. Props to Jonny for not only flashing the 7a+ but then stepping it up and flashing the 7b too, It got me so psyched as I could not manage the 7b at all but after seeing him manage it, I pulled on and topped it! A good success to end the trip with!

And that concluded to amazing trip to The wonderful forest of Fontainebleau. Overall I was quite pleased with what I managed, it would have been nice to get some harder climbs but you can't have everything you want so I'm going to take pleasure in the fact I had a great holiday with some amazing friends!

Ticklist:

La Grande Marche Prolongee 7b
Ah Plus Facile 7a+
Bioethique 7a+ FLASH
Mur Lombard 7a+ 2nd go
Levitation 7a+ 2nd go
Lady Big Claque 7a+ 2nd go
Quartier Chaud 7a+
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre 7a
Lapin ou Canard 7a
Jet Set 7a
Graviton 7a FLASH
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7a FLASH
Belle Lurette 7a
Abdolobotomy 7a
Panzer 7a
Vis-a-Vis 7a


Summer of Crush Part 3

Summer of Crush Part 1

So my summer really kicked off around the time I went to Kilnsey with Tom, but it did not stop there... A few days later I was on the plane heading to Imst, Austria to take part in the European Youth Championships. I was convinced that I felt confident and calm, but during both my practice runs on the speed wall I felt rubbish. I'm not sure how I could explain how I felt because it was quite surreal, I think my problem was that I was too calm, I really felt nothing I was at the bottom of the wall in one of the biggest events of the year and I wasn't even scared a tiny bit and that felt wrong. My first qualification attempt was average and I got roughly 10.3 seconds, luckily after this point I realised what I believed was my problem and on my second attempt I felt much better because I forced myself to become more nervous. This paid off and I got a personal best of 9.89 seconds, this cheered me up but also reminded me of my problem with speed climbing. I can't train properly being a good 6 hours away from the nearest speed wall, but on the positive side with the new Awesome Walls Climbing Center opening in Sheffield I should have a place to train very soon within a reasonable distance from me!

Finals Problem 2
Photo: Sandy Carr

Once I got home I had a week of training before heading out for Leeds on Friday night to take part in the Summer Bouldering Youth Open Event on the Saturday! This was the final round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships and I was keen to give it absolutely everything I had. But to make the day even more fun it also happened to be my 18th birthday on the same day! Qualifiers started well and I flashed 7 of the climbs relatively easily, there was only one problem I couldn't do, but luckily I managed to get the bonus points and qualified for the finals in a solid 2nd place. After isolation, we viewed our climbs then the real competition started. I went out for the first one and flashed it quite easily with no drama. On the next climb I made a stupid mistake on my flash attempt and actually got past the crux but just got a foot slightly too high and fell off on an easy move, on my next attempt I did it then went back to isolation. I was finally out for my last climb which I was a bit more worried about as it was long and overhanging and after a day of climbing I wasn't sure how much energy I still had left, but luck was on my side and I threw for the last hold caught the wrong part - a poor sloper. But somehow my hand just stuck, I matched it and finished in 2nd place on the day which put me in 2nd place in the overall results of the British Championships.

Overall Junior Bouldering Championship Podium

The next day I drove to the peak to meet my mum for the day at a cottage we had hired for the week so I could climb with a group of friends known as Team Crush!

Day One

Blueband 7c+

 On Monday morning once everyone had arrived we headed out to Raven Tor as I and Jonny where keen to have a look at Ben's Roof Extension (8a) Once we arrived I got straight onto Ben's Roof and did it with ease, not quite sure why it took me months to do! After that we had a look at the start moves but it was so dark, damp and muddy we lost our psych and sacked it off until we could understand what we where doing. I moved down towards Blueband (7c+) practiced the moves for an hour or so then started having redpoint attempts at it. I was pleased how far I was getting, because last time I tried it there where some moves I was physically not strong enough to do and coming off on the last move gave me confidence that I'm improving and that this climb will go! And that it did, on my next go I finished it! I finished my day there pretty Pleased with doing two 7c+'s!

Day Two

Getting Psyched For Big Air!

On Tuesday we headed to Stanage Plantation, I had been here once a few years ago and was keen just to climb there again, not having any project in mind I followed Billy to Zippy's Traverse (7b) and thanks to Billy having quality beta I sent it soon after. From there I moved over to Deliverance (7b+) but I had the same issue I did a few years back and couldn't do the last move, I sacked it off and we moved down to have a bit of fun with some classic highball boulders. I had previously flashed Crescent Arete (5c) but repeated it just for fun then took one pad over to Not To Be Taken Away (6c) which again had done before and climbed it a couple times before getting psyched for To Be Or Not To Be (7a+) which is a kind of high dyno problem but with a comfortable landing. I managed this is two or three goes and this is where I got a stupid idea... I'm going to blame Tom and Billy for getting me psyched to try this! But I moved towards Big Air which depending on how you look at it is E6 6b or 6c boulder... We shoved our bags in between the rocks, pud pads over them and worked out where the spotters would go. Once I was happy with the fall I got myself psyched and committed for it. I jumped for the pocket and caught it, from there you pull up to a tiny pocket which you can barely fit one finger in get your left foot up high, lock your left arm and catch another pocketey hold. once there you stand and catch a big jug and top out. I was disappointed on how easy it felt actually, for something that is notoriously dangerous I hoped it would have been harder! (Not going to lie, I was pretty scared though)

Day Three

Bouldering at Rubicon

Wednesday saw us headed to Rubicon in the morning, as soon as we arrived I put a pad straight under Kudos (7b) this is because a few years ago I had tried it and just couldn't manage the last move. Unsurprisingly over a couple years I have improved and grown and as soon as I pulled on I topped it, from there I dragged a pad over to The Press (7b+) and within five or ten minutes had managed that as well. Unfortunately it was too hot, I'd like tot think I could have flashed it as well but I guess I will never know. I tried the kneeling start to The Press after which gets 7c+ for a little while but was beginning to grease off the holds so sadly had to give up on it. As a few of the girls where trying A Bigger Prize (7a) I thought I may as well give it a go as I was starting to loose my psych having not got any ticks for a couple hours, after a brief look at it I pulled on and flashed it. I'm still not sure if it is 7a but I've decided to just go with the guide on that one... The next hour or so saw me getting torn to pieces by A Bigger Splash Direct (7b) I found it strangely hard and it wasn't until Jonny gave me some of his beta that it became a possibility and went a little while after. From there Myself and Jonny spent a while working Tsunami (8a) but with the heat it got more and more difficult as the day went on so we gave up, but I am definitely psyched to go back and do it soon. To finish I managed A Bigger Splash (7a+) on my second go, it wasn't pleasant as it has a lot of sharp crimps.
Once everyone became sick of the sharp holds we left and drove to Curbar, we all had a bit of a play around on some problems before we moved to Gorilla Warfare (7a) I had a look at it and thought it was quite easy, so without really paying any attention to it I pulled on and embarrassingly fell off trying to top out because I had no idea where the holds where... But on my second attempt it went easy and I finished for the day wanting to save my skin.

Day Four
Somehow no matter what I usually seem to find myself at Raven Tor, Thursday was one of those days and we headed back there. Once more I had a look Ben's Roof Extension (8a) and surprised myself by finding a good sequence, I got Jonny psyched to try it again and we spent a while working it. We both put in a few good repoint attempts coming off after the crux at the easy last section of the climb. But by the end I was too tired and couldn't cope with the failure anymore, I have spent far too long obsessing over this climb and it really needed to be done. Tired, sore and defeated I left.

Day Five
The plan was to head to Chee Dale on Friday so everyone could get some sport climbing done but it was raining and we heard it was wet still, so once more we ended up at Raven Tor... This really boosted my motivation and as soon as we got there I warmed myself up and pulled straight onto Ben's Roof (7c+) and did it straight away. I got psyched and went straight into the cave to start working the beginning section again. I had several few good attempts and after a while I had my sequence perfect. After a good rest I felt fresh again and went for it, and minute or so later I found myself latching the last hold! I had a feeling of pure happiness wave over myself. It was finally done. I've no reason to become obsessed with those same holds anymore. Even now I can close my eyes and climb the entire problem in my head and I'd imagine it is going to stay stuck in there for quite some time... Eventually I was talked into trying Keen Roof (8b) by Tom Newman as he had been working it during the day. I've always dreamed of climbing this line but I'd never thought it possible for me, I gave the crux moves a few goes and with Tom being kind enough to share his beta I really think it could become a possibility in the future. But not right now, and I think that's the best part I know I'm not ready for it and that gives me comfort that I won't become obsessed all over again.

And that's about it for the week! Cheers Tom Bonnert, Jonny White, Naomi Tilley, Billy Ridal, Flo Tilley, Sarah Pashley, Tara Hayes, Tash Allcock and Gracie Martin for all coming and making it an amazing week! I'm heading off to Font next Saturday with some of the same awesome group, I've already got a good ticklist in mind so we shall see how that goes!

Ticks:
Ben's Roof Extension 8a
Blueband 7c+
Ben's Roof 7c+ (Repeat)
The Press 7b+
A Bigger Splash 7b
Kudos 7b
Zippy's Traverse 7b
Too Hard For Mark Leach Footless 7b
A Bigger Splash 7a+ (2nd go)
To Be Or Not To Be 7a+
Gorilla Warfare 7a (2nd go)
A Bigger Prize 7a (Flash)
Not To Be Taken Away 6c (Repeat)
Big Air E6 6b / 6c (Flash)

Summer of Crush Part 2

Bouderer On A Rope!

So over the last week I shifted disciplines just to change things around a bit. It all started by being asked if I wanted to go to Chee Dale with Alex Norton (If you haven't heard of him yet you will one day) as he hasn't really got much experience climbing outdoors, and being me I find it hard to say no to trips out. But around the same time I was asked by Tom Bonnert if I fancied going to Kilnsey with him for a few days, once again I agreed to go. I realised having done nothing but bouldering and speed training for a year now it was going to be pretty tough, I was still excited for it though. And to all of my sport climbing friends who may read this, no laughing!
So on Sunday I got up early and cycled to meet Alex and his dad Bill then we drove to Loughborough to pick up Rich Winters. Once we arrived at the crag I was in awe at how beautiful it was, even the walk in was just fantastic and I normally hate the walks into crags! We eyed up some routes and got started, Alex who has only done sport climbing a couple times before was very excited and wanted to go up first. The plan was to get on Clarion Call 7a, so he started off confidently got the first clip in and was instantly stuck by a slightly large reach off a tiny hold. After a few minutes of fumbling he came down frustrated with himself then I got on, pulled through the move and confidently climbed the rest of it and clipped the chain. I was pleased that I flashed it (Although a little gutted I couldn't take the onsight) because I didn't have much confidence on leading due of my lack of stamina. Next up I went on Big Zipper 7b, I had spent a while eyeing it up and thought I might even have it in me to onsight it, I climbed slowly and cautiously up until the crux at the end which involved breaking out right off undercuts and reaching up to average crimps before getting to nice big pinches to finish. But when I got to the undercuts, even though I just took a massive rest on some jugs I was boxed out of my mind, pulled up to the crimps but couldn't hold on any longer and fell. After a short rest on the rope I pulled on and finished the route, once lowered off I was shattered and needed a long rest before trying it again. I pulled on for my second attempt thinking I had it in my head as to what I would do on the route, yet got myself confused at an easier lower section and wasted time. Once passed there I rested on the jugs before the crux and moved into it confidently getting through it and reaching up to the good pinch, from there I caught the next one but was far too tired to make a bigger move to the final jug and fell. Gutted I rested for about another hour, got my sequence in my head and pulled on for a final time. This time I climbed fast and smoothly and topped it, I was shocked that I didn't feel too tired once I finished it. But I still took a big rest before my final climb which was Whose Line Is It Anyway 7a+, I'd watched loads of people try this throughout the day and after my rest I was sure I could flash it. I pulled on and passed the first clip then slowed down immensely, getting confused at the strange sequence and large cross overs. After fighting my way up I got to the final crux and barely caught the undercuts to pull up to average crimps, from there I took what was probably the most uncomfortable rest I've ever had and moved onto the final couple of moves, I crossed over to a crimp, caught a side pull then threw for the final jug but was so boxed out of my mind my arms just flailed about in the air and I fell taking a massive fall half way down the wall (Which was extremely fun!) Too tired to continue I lowered off and we packed up to leave. I was pleased with what I managed considering I haven't been sport climbing in a year, and have had less than five sessions lead climbing indoors in the past year too.
Next trip was to Kilnsey with Tom, I was extremely psyched for this. I had been last year with a group of friends, managed a few good ticks but never anything too hard and as we had four days there I hoped to get a good hard route done. Wednesday we drove to Manchester to pick up keys for Tom's house at uni next year then we went to Rock Over for a short bouldering session. It might have been far too hot really and we only climbed for an hour or so, but I managed to flash a V8, V7 and V6 which was cool. The next day we left and eventually arrived at the crag at about midday, we warmed up on the Bulgelette 6b+ which almost happened to be the start of The Bulge 8a which was Tom's goal for the trip. He had many heartbreakers on it last year coming off the last move and had the sequence completely wired now and was keen to get it done. Not long and he did which was fantastic, I also had a go last year but only one which I got relatively far up but then fell and worked the rest of the moves. So I was also keen to get on it and see how I fared, especially since my endurance is non existent and its a 26 meter epic. I got the moves in my head again and started going for redpoints, I had a few alright goes and on my last attempt I fell off going for one of the last jugs in the overhang. After a recommendation from Tom I got on Smooth Torquer 7b at the far end of the crag, he thought I could onsight it since it was a short bouldery route up jugs. I got on and after a short fight at the start relaxed a bit and managed to onsight it!

Keeping our Evolv shoes nice and fresh at the end of each day!

We finished up and went to the campsite, got the tent out and cooked dinner, sausages and veg. Nice. The next day I was psyched to get The Bulge finished, not only because I don't like having projects for too long but also because we had minimal quickdraws and Tom couldn't climb anything until I got it done! I warmed up then had a good redpoint attempt but still not quite there, coming off right at the top. After a rest I had another go and tragically fell off with my fingers tickling the final hold, frustrated I had another rest before I finally got back on. I felt like I climbed really smoothly and thanks to that got to the top, clipped the chain and stripped the route. My first 8a! After watching a few people try WYSIWYG 7b and the extension, Dead Calm 8a I got keen to try WYSIWYG again. I had one attempt last year but absolutely hated it and never bothered trying to finish it. So I pulled on and luckily managed it, but barely. At least I knew I still did not like it and I knew it wasn't worth wasting my time on Dead Calm. During this time Tom had been working the moves to The Thumb 8a and he got pretty keen to finish it during the trip. The next day we arrived at the crag and being the weekend it was pretty busy, but also the weather had changed. It was no longer ridiculously hot so all the strong people showed up, there was actually a wait to get on True North 8c! Tom spent the day working The Thumb and as all our clips where in that I decided to give Full Tilt 8b a bash as others had the clips in it for working True North. It felt so amazing to get on a route where I really really had to push to even manage the moves, from all my bouldering I've mostly not struggled on moves on routes lately I normally just get boxed and fall. So this was a real eye opener that I can do hard moves while on a rope still, I'm looking forward to coming back over the next few years and hopefully get it finished one day! Unfortunately Tom didn't manage The Thumb but he was getting very close, I think we were both sure it would go the next day! We got up the next day, packed our tent away and drove to the crag one final time, Tom warmed up on The Bulgelette and started going for redpoints on The Thumb again once he had flash pump. He had a couple attempts and on the second got past his high point but just missed a hold and fell. Gutted he had a rest and I went up Last Gasp Finish 7b, I was keen to onsight it and after getting past the hard finish and almost fully recovering at the huge rest half way up it. From there I continued pulling each move and eventually clipped the chain, I was so psyched, I could just feel myself getting fitter each day. After a rest Tom got on The Thumb again and managed it! Good trip for him, getting two 8a's! After a recommendation from someone on our first day we went to try Hardy Annual 7b, Tom was still a bit tired so I went for the onsight. I really really fought for this one, the start was absolutely desperate, felt like a V6 boulder into a massive no hands rest on a ledge separated by two or three awkward moves to jugs from there onward until you clipped the chain. I just about managed it and was pretty stoked the finish my trip with that! Tom also had a go and managed it second attempt which was sweet.
We finished the trip there and headed home! It was so much fun being out there again and doing sport. I realised how much I do enjoy sport climbing outdoors, but I really feel the need to get above a pad again and do some hard bouldering! Got the European Championships this week and I leave on Wednesday, so I'm psyched for that!

Cheers for the trip Tom! I imagine he will write a blog about his huge success at some point and you can check that out here - http://www.tombonnertclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/ (Or just check it out anyway)

Ticks -
Smooth Torquer 7b (Onsight)
The Bulge 8a
WYSIWYG 7b (2nd Go)
Last Gasp Finish 7b (Onsight)
Hardy Annual 7b (Onsight)

British Bouldering Championships 2013

So summer has come once again and it was time for my favorite event of every year! The British Bouldering Championships! I've loved this event ever since the first time I entered, even after sustaining a nasty fall in it a few years ago and breaking my knee it's still held a special place in my heart. I'm not quite sure why, it could be the crowd that get's me psyched, being up in front of everyone, or possibly the just pushing yourself to your absolute physical limit. What ever it is, it gets me psyched and I love it.
I've always been obsessed with bouldering, even before I started competing I had my dad trying to get me to go do some routes because I'd done nothing but bouldering for weeks in a row. And a very personal goal of mine from quite a young age was to possibly get on the senior bouldering team when I grew up, I still have no idea if that will ever happen. But it's a goal and I'm not going to stop trying. So anyway, the event came, I was psyched and ready.
Qualifiers started on Saturday morning and from arriving with just the goal of trying to make Semi Finals and not being that nervous as it was my first year in the seniors I suddenly got nervous. I tried to shake it off in isolation while warming up but I couldn't, the excitement was still there but as soon as I walked out to get on problem one it really his me. My whole body was shaking, I read my climb and got on it. Honestly it felt really easy, but because I was so shaky and the holds where all tiny I just didn't get on with it until my third go where I topped it and walked off frustrated with myself for being so slow. After that I moved onto problem two which I quickly read and luckily by then the nerves had disappeared after I topped the first one. I got on and quickly flashed it with ease. Smiling I walked back to isolation for my rest then came out to try problem three... I could have kicked myself after this climb, my route reading just died. And the worst part? I don't know why. Normally when I do something wrong, especially in competition if I know why I did something wrong it won't bother me much because I can improve on it. But in this situation I was just stupid and didn't get the sequence right in my head until my fifth attempt, but sadly this go I fell off straight away and with little time left I had to make a tactical decision. Go for it and risk falling, or save my energy and go back to isolation? I made the risky move of committing for it. I got on and did it. Few. The fourth climb frustrated me immensely, first go I got the bonus and was at the main crux. It was an awkward throw round a corner for a poor hold, but the frustrating part was that the corner of the wall was in the way! My first go I stabbed my chest into it and my second I cut my arm on it. After that I realsied it was too powerful and not worth wasting more energy on so I went back to isolation. The final problem, I felt ready for it. I walked out quickly read it and got on, it felt really nice, not too difficult but still challenging. After I flashed that I was done with qualifiers and I had time to relax until the results came out. Luckily I came 7th in group B which meant I was through to the Semi Finals the next day in 14th overall! A massive congrats to Tara Hayes who's been a training partner of mine for years for qualifying in 3rd in the women's category!
I went home in the evening had a lovely barbecue and a decent nights sleep and felt ready by the morning to give it my all. I'd already made my goal, I had no pressure now, all I had to do was crush. Sadly I've been suffering from hay fever a lot recently and being outside did not help, and to top it off my throat was killing me. After convincing my dad to go get me an ice cream to help my throat I warmed up and after doing some pretty cool dynos and hard problems on the warm up wall I went out to climb. Problem one was a strange one, it started balancing across some volumes to then doing a bit of a deadpoint while balancing to a sloping volume higher up, from there you got a slightly higher foot onto a very slippy foothold and had to pull up to the final hold, another slopper. Sadly I got to the last hold, held it for a second then fell. Problem two was equally as frustrating, accept completely different. My first go I only got two moves into it, on my second once again it was the last hold! It felt really powerful and I thought I'd tweaked my shoulder a bit, I pulled on again but realised I used to much strength and gave it a miss. After a rest in isolation I came back out for the third problem, it started on average holds to some holds on a volume, but sadly I got my holds a bit mixed up and only got one move into it. The final climb was really amazing though it started on two volumes with a horn shaped hold, then went straight into a roof. I pulled off the side of the roof caught an undercut in the middle then threw for a small hold round the lip from there I was too tired to think straight and I fell off swinging while trying to catch the bonus hold. If I was thinking straight I would have lowered off my legs first instead of just full on jumping, then I might have been able to hold the swing and get points for the bonus.
From there I was finished, but I was happy. I felt I climbed pretty well, there was like always, room for improvement. But the best part was I got an amazing result (As far as I'm concerned) and finished 10th! I'm very pleased about this, as it was a similar sort of crowd to Rocfest and CWIF and I got a much better result than I had in both of them. Hopefully I can do even better in the final round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships on August the third, which just so happens to be my eighteenth birthday as well! Congrats to Jen Wood for putting a fantastic effort in, making the finals and finishing in 6th in the end!
I'm going Kilnsey for a few days with Tom Bonnert next week to hopefully get some hard routes done which will be a fun experience for a boulderer like myself. Then it's the European Championships, Junior British Boudlering Championships and many, many trips I already have planned out! Time for the summer of sends to commence, let's to crush.

BMC Report and Results
Male Qualifications Replay
Female Qualifications Replay
Semi Final Replay
Final Replay
Video of most my climbs

Bahrain Speed Climbing Exhibition

So a few days after the European Cup I received an email inviting me to demonstrate speed climbing with multiple world cup winner Edyta Ropek and her coach Arkadiusz Kaminski. Unfortunately I'd been quite stupid and let my passport expire so I phoned up the passport office and after a rather boring day in Peterborough I got it sorted and within a couple days was on a flight to Bahrain!
I spent the first day relaxing and just having a look around the shopping shopping centres there, which are some of the biggest ones I have ever seen. After a look around I went back to the hotel, had a session in the gym then headed outside to the climbing wall which was being built outside the hotel.

A view of the wall

Eventually the wall was finished being built and the holds put up, in the end it was decided not to put the official speed route up as the whole idea was to get people to come and have a go and we realised it might actually be too hard for most people as most the country had never experienced climbing before.

The first evening went by quite quickly, a fair few people showed up to the event and quite a lot of newspaper reporters as well. It was all a bit of a shock to the system being asked for so many interviews, photographs, etc. By the last day I was even asked for my autograph which was just mental! Unfortunately Edyta was still recovering from an operation so she didn't really manage much climbing. Because of this I had the honour of doing most the demonstrations which was quite exciting, as it was just a very easy route I managed to zoom up the wall quite fast leaving the crowd quite excited and wanting to have a go themselves. Eventually one man showed up who wanted a go, and he was quite good and got up the wall with ease. I spoke to him afterwards and found out his name - Omar Summar. And as it turns out he was the 2006 UK BeatBox Champion, so after the band had finished we got him to do a demonstration and honestly it was amazing. Everyone around just stopped what they where doing to watch him, you can see a short video of his performance on Edyta's Youtube Page. 

The next day I went to Martin and Sylvia's (The people behind Sportique88 which has ran the season of sport in Bahrain) home to have lunch and a swim in the pool. During lunch we spoke of different opportunities for climbing in Bahrain which will hopefully take off as a popular sport in the country. That evening we went back to the wall, set up and started letting people have a climb. We were shocked, after the first evenings news reports had gone up a lot more people showed up and were very excited to have a go. By the end we were shattered! But I was pleased to see people I recongnised form the first evening showing up again hoping to have another go, there was definitely a lot on young people who were very keen and had more attempts than I could recall! Afterwards we went back to the hotel and all had a drink together when suddenly we saw a newspaper which just so happened to have me on the front cover!

Me on the front cover of a local newspaper

The next day was a very special day as it was also the last day of the exhibition, we got up early and went on a culture tour which had been organised for us. It started off by visiting a museum which also had an old fort which you could walk around and see, unfortunately as soon as we stepped outside to see the fort I realised it was just too hot for me so I went back to sit in the air conditioned museum while the others had a look around. Next we had a look around a shop selling handcrafted gifts, it was a short but interesting place. Finally we went to see the Grand Mosque, it was a huge and magnificent building. Even the doors where marvelous, reaching heights of up to 20ft and weighing around 1 and a half tones! 

Arkadiusz, Myself, Edyta and my Mum at the Museum

A photo of part of the main prayer hall

We returned to the hotel had lunch and where then picked up by Martin who had a special treat in store for us. He ran the Bahrain International Circuit for many years and was going to take us for a tour around the place. Once we arrived he drove us round the track in his car and then even let us all have a drive too! It was an amazing experience and I still can't believe we where allowed to do it! I guess it pays to know the right people!

Me driving on the Bahrain International Circuit

Finally we finished driving on the track and headed back to the hotel for a short rest before starting the final exhibition. It started off as usual, we set up gave a few demonstrations then let people start climbing! It was so exciting yet again, I saw many familiar faces, took photos, a few interviews and signed my first autograph! Part way through we were stopped so some certificates could be handed out for people from other events of the season of sport and then finally we were given ours, it was an honour to meet the Minister of Culture who was awarding the certificates. He seemed very interested in climbing and quite keen on the possibility of having a climbing center in Bahrain and holding the event again in the future! I'm very excited about the possibility of this and even more so to be part of bringing my sport to the country!

Had to pose for lots of photos! This family was very keen on climbing!

The Minister of Culture and Myself

After the event finished we went to the cafe opposite the wall to have some food and a drink, during this we chatted about all the possibilities this event has created and the future of climbing here. So you can look forward to all the exciting things to come of this.

The next day we got on the plane and on arriving at Heathrow said goodbye to Martin, Sylvia and their daughter Chloe who happened to be on the same flight home as us.  And now I'm home and just trying to process everything which has just happened. I can't believe it all and am very excited about the future possibilities that this event has created!

Martin, Myself, Chloe, Sylvie and my Mum after the final exhibiton

I'd like to say a huge thank you to Martin and Sylvia for inviting me to take part in this amazing event, I can never thank them enough for the life changing trip they have given me. The Ministry of Culture in Bahrain for putting so much into Climb Fever and the rest of the Season of Sport. And finally the many people of Bahrain who showed up and really made the event such a success!

Heres a few links to some news articles and reports of the event -

Bahrain News Agency

Daily Tribune (E-Paper)

Ministry of Culture's report

Psych is High (Two Comps and Training)

So I haven't written anything in a little while now, at first I thought this was because I hadn't really done much of interest. But I've just got home from the European cup at Ratho and realised I've done so much recently, that it's actually just overwhelmed me and I haven't given myself the time to process all that has happened.
First of there was the Scottish Bouldering Championships held at The Climbing Academy in Glasgow which formed the second round of the British Bouldering Championships. This event was really well run, the problems were all fantastic and the finals where amazing! My only thought on it is that in the qualifying maybe my categories problems where too easy, I say this because I flashed them all but coincidentally I was the only person to do that. Thinking about it now it might not be a case of that they were easy but more proving to myself that I am actually improving and all the training is paying off. Unfortunately in the finals I didn't have such luck and failed to top any of my climbs, but I did get enough bonus points on them to finish in a comfortable second place.
The day after that I traveled to Ratho with a few other friends for a training session. But I had a different goal to them as I knew the European cup was coming up I wanted to get on the speed wall and try to get a good enough time to qualify to enter! I knew it would be a hard task, I hadn't even tried the route since the European Championships last year and my previous best time was 12.19 seconds I think. As I had moved up into the junior category I really had to push since I need 10.5 seconds to qualify. This was no easy task.
I had a few goes just feeling the holds remembering what it was like to climb it, then I spent some time trying to improve my sequence as I knew it wasn't the best. After all this I just threw myself at the wall over and over again trying harder and harder to get that time. Almost every time I improved knocking fractions of a second each time until eventually I was consistently hitting around 10.6 seconds. At this point I knew it would take planning to improve so I took my time, rested more and started to really focus. Eventually I got down 10.54 seconds. But we had already stayed over an hour later than we were meant to and as it is around a 6 hour drive home and I had gotten a lift with a friend I couldn't make them wait any longer and we left.
Fortunately after contacting the Bmc they agreed to let me enter the Comp! I was ecstatic, the only down side was that because technically I was over the qualifying time still I wouldn't be aloud to enter and other internationals abroad. After speaking to my mum about it all she made what I can imagine was a very hard decision and decided to take me up to Ratho again so I could practice more before the event so I could improve and maybe become fast enough to enter other events. As we aren't the richest family in the world unfortunately this meant she wouldn't be able to come up again 2 weeks later to watch me compete in the event, and I can never thank her enough for making that choice because that weekend of practicing on the speed wall made the world of a difference. I found a new sequence that made me much quicker and improved my time to 10.09 seconds!
The days passed, the training continued and eventually I was in the car with my dad driving up to Ratho to enter the European Cup. The first day was given over to the ridiculously talented lead climbers from all over Europe. With over 200 competitors it was going to be a long day, but eventually they finished their qualifiers and results had been posted and GB had 3 climbers in the finals!
From half four in the afternoon though the climbing was given over to the speed climbers we had our practice runs then qualification started. To say I was nervous was an understatement, I knew I would be up against people who constantly trained on the route and knew it like the back of their hand and all I had was one wall 6 hours away from where I live! But I managed a decent time of 10.34 and fortunately was through to the finals in 7th place! Much better than I could have ever hoped for!
The next day the finals for the lead climbing started and we all watched intently waiting for our team mates to come out. William Bosi was out first and had a fantastic performance but just slipped one hold from the highest point and finished in 2nd place overall in youth B! Fair play to him as he fully believes he could have done loads better! Next out was Buster Martin, I imagine he was already really happy with his result as it was the first time he has made a final in a European! He climbed fantastically but out of the blue just slipped whilst clipping, in the end he finished in a respectable 8th place in youth A. Finally out was Molly Thompson-Smith who had an awful morning and had been really quite ill so no matter where she came it would have been an achievement. As it turns out she did really well and finished in 5th in youth A. So a massive well done to all of them and the rest of the team.
Finally it was the finals for the speed climbing, my first race went amazingly and I won posting a new personal best as well at 9.98 seconds! Next was the semi finals and unfortunately I slipped almost straight away and lost. But really I didn't mind too much I had guaranteed at least 4th place and still had a shot at 3rd place. I had my final race, it started out okay I made a minor fumble but it didn't slow me down too much and we were head to head up until the last move, where tragically I missed my foothold and almost fell off. I had lost, but I made the last move hit the pad and was lowered off. So in the end I finished in 4th place, I'm so pleased though because I did better than expected and possibly more importantly got a new personal best time as well! Finally well done to Alexander Bosi for finishing 7th in youth A and getting a new PB as well and Pete Dawson for entering only to take William's place as he dropped out and having never really done it much before managed 4th in youth B!

Needless to say I'm psyched more than ever and ready to keep on pushing to improve! Next up is the Senior British Bouldering championships and then providing I get a new passport in time the European Championships in Imst!

Full report by the BMC (Includes links to results)

Fontainebleau Easter 2013

Day 1
The day started off at 6am, we got ready and stuffed all our things into the car leaving the house at about half 7. After a couple hours in the car we arrived at the channel tunnel and met George Morris there who insisted we had our photo taken with the Easter bunny as someone was in a costume giving out free cream eggs. Unfortunately there seemed to be massive delays at the tunnel and we were there for almost two hours! Eventually the train left and we got to France at about 4 then we had the long drive to our gite...

Fontainebleau!

Buildering in the village

Day 2
My first day climbing here, and it was amazing! We went to Apremonte and as soon as I got there I felt overwhelmed, the amount of boulders everywhere, the people climbing and how big it all was. It was so much to take in, so I warmed up and got on some really easy problems then moved onto things that looked a bit harder. I got on a climb, managed to flash it and thought "oh that was hard, what grade is it" so I got a guide out and found out it was about 5b. At that point I was quite worried, if I had to push to do a 5b, how would the rest of the week go? I moved on to a harder looking problem to the left of it called Jiu Jitsu (6a+) I had seen some people working it and thought it looked fun so I asked if I could have a go, and again got worried because it felt so hard. But I pulled on and managed to get to the last few holds, but I couldn't see my feet. So the only natural thing I could think of was to campus it until I could get my feet high enough so i could top out. I flashed it, but felt pretty stupid in the process...
After that we all started working the sit start to Légitimate Adhérance (7a). I had a good flash attempt and almost topped it and after a few more goes I managed to finish it. I felt like I was finally managing to get to grips with the climbing here. Soon after Duncan and George managed it too and we all moved on.
The next climb was quite an odd one, it's called Retablissement (7a) and after some route reading and advice I managed to flash it! I was so happy, but not everyone else was as lucky as me as it had a awkward and scary top out... But after an hour Duncan and George managed it too, which good.
From there we moved to try Le Petit Phoque (7b) this was quite an awkward climb, starting sat on the floor pulling off tiny crimps and a heal hook, then slapping round a corner to more crimps. It took a couple trys but after a while I managed to top it out.
Finally I decided to try Sitting Bull (7c). It goes through a roof off awkward holds and finishing by mantling off terrible slopers. Everyone else decided not to try it after seeing me fail trying to work it out for half an hour. But after two hours I worked out all the beta and managed it! My first 7c outdoors!

Ticks:
Jiu Jitsu 6a+ FLASH
Légitime Adhérance assis 7a
Retablissement 7a FLASH
Le Petit Phoque 7a
Sitting Bull 7c

Day 3
The next day didn't start out great, I couldn't seem to climb anything in the morning and eventually we went to La Canche aux Merciers and I flashed La Grande Marche (7a+). I spent a little while working the 7b extension where you climb the crack then instead of topping out you traverse left across the lip with a series of heel hooks then top out on slopers. But unfortunately, being the boulderer I am, as soon as I got to the crux I was pumped and couldn't pull anymore. Soon after though Tash managed to climb La Grande Marche too which was her first 7a+ so with that fantastic effort we moved Drei Zinnen to work Diversion (7b). As soon as I saw this line I was stoked to send it, it just looked perfect. Small little pockets up a steep wall, it took a while to work out the beta which suited me through the beginning then I had to figure out how I cold top out as I couldn't do it the normal way. In the end I settled with bringing my heel up next to my hand and locking off to reach the final pocket which was basically the end nice from there it was 2 easy moves of what were basically jugs. A little while after Duncan managed to top it too and we both left pretty pleased with ourselves!

Ticks:
La Grande Marche 7a+ FLASH
Diversion 7b

Extensions of La Grande Marche 7b

Day 4
Gorge aux Chats was the destination the next day! After running around to warm up then getting lost in the forest trying to find everyone again since I ran too far I got on some easy stuff. after i felt warm I decided to work Rubis Sur l'Ongle (7b+). I quickly worked out how to do every move but just couldn't manage it, especially since it was getting warmer and warmer. We realised eventually that now it was warmer and the sun was on the rock that I probably won't be possible for us at the time, so we decided to come another day a little bit earlier to get on it before it got hot! So next we all got on Sa Pelle al Logis (7a), Duncan and I quickly flashed it so I moved on to try Opera Tchetchene Raccourci (7a). After one attempt and realising the top out was the crux I tried it again five minutes later and topped it. We left there and went to Bas Cuvier where I quickly flashed Helicoptere (7a), I can understand why it's a bit of a dangerous climb after seeing countless people fall and nearly break their legs! I spent a long time working Carnage (7b+) after that but it just didn't seem to happen! I was so frustrated, I was really loosing my head. Not long after I'd given up hope Duncan managed it and due to my competitive nature this finished me for the day. I was a typical grumpy teenager. So apologies to everyone about that! I left with George to try some other climbs since he was having an equally sucky day but again we had no luck. So finally I tried La Marie Rose (6a), which is probably the hardest 6a going and managed it second go.

Ticks:
Sa Pelle al Logis 7a FLASH
Opera Tchetchene Raccourci 7a
Helicoptere 7a FLASH
La Marie Rose 6a

Day 5
I finally picked up and managed some decent hard stuff, we headed to Buthiers and got on Magic Bus (7b). This really got me psyched, it was a short roof climb involving some sneaky footwork. After one attempt getting to the crux I tried the move in isolation then got on it again from the start. I pulled onto the jugs, reach my right hand to the next big undercut, walked my feet around the wall so I could reach crimp with my left hand then got a sweet double toe hook, locked my left arm then reached and caught the next big undercut. From there I pulled my feet up dead pointed to a big flat hold,whacked a heel hook up then topped out. Sweet. All in about fifteen minutes too! Again a little while after Duncan managed it too, and with the others having no luck we moved on again to Bas Cuvier. This time I was calm, and having no expectations I warmed up again and decided to try Carnage and see if I could get it. I had one attempt and felt strong so I rested, pulled on again and managed it. Just goes to show how much having a clear head can help.

Ticks:
Magic bus 7b
Carnage 7b+

Day 6
Today was the day! I was going to do Rubis Sur l'Ongle, no exceptions. We arrived, warmed up and I practiced the moves just to refresh my mind and body on how it was done. After a couple hours though I still had no luck... I was once again getting stressed out and couldn't cope. I did t get was going wrong! I rested at least five minutes between attempts, I was keeping warm, I just did not understand! To top things off one of my finger tips split and I started to bleed too dried it up tried again and still no luck! And Mother Nature was not on my side either as although it was our first cloudy day the sun started peaking through and warming the climb up too much! I'd had it. I wanted the climb so much, I just couldn't handle it I felt on the verge of tears. After hearing George say something, I can't even remember what it reminded me of the song Hey Ya by Outkast. Before the trip I had been driving my friends nuts playing the song and had even got it on my phone. I checked and the crag was mostly empty to I thought why not, gave him my phone and got the song blasting. I chalked up and pulled on, realising instantly i was smiling. After a short fight I caught the crux hold managed to stick the next few moves after some quite odd power shouting and soon found myself standing on top of the boulder! I can't think of a more hilariously epic movement I've ever had whilst climbing. Again, a fine example of what being calm and generally being happy can do for you.
We moved to Isatis next to try Iceberg (7c) but with my sore skin and weird style of climbing It had I quickly decided it wasn't for me. After a recommendation from Nick to try L'Arrache Coeur (7c) we went t have a look and I realised it was the climb for me. It was like a typical indoor hard pulling climb (although it was a little bit soft...) It only took about four or five goes which was even better! It started on two jugs, I dead pointed to another jug, worked my feet up locked off and caught a crimp with my left hand you then twist your hip into the wall and get an awkward knee bar in and reach round a small roof to another crimp. This move felt massive, and to top it off it was very high and not even the crux! From there you sort your feet out catch another crimp then jump to a sloper round a corner then campus to the jug at the top. I felt fantastic! My second 7c of the trip!

Ticks:
Rubis Sur l'Ongle 7b+
L'Arrache Coeur 7c

L'Arrache Coeur 7c

Day 7
The final day, we decided to spend the whole day at Bas Cuvier. Started on Duroxamine (6c), it was vile. Apparently a classic. I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and my opinion is it was polished choss. Managed it 2nd go but it was not that enjoyable. We moved on to the man area and Duncan's aim was to do Carnage Assis (7c). I had already wrote it off and thought it wasn't worth my time since the stand felt hard enough, but like I said - I'm competitive. So I couldn't resist. We set to work, sit down, pull on, climb up, fall off, repeat. Eventually we started getting close and eventually Duncan managed it, making it look easy in the process. Good effort. Now I just couldn't leave it. But I'd learnt for the previous days, there's no point getting down! I stayed chilled and just carries on trying, eventually more of my finger tips started to split and at me point I did start to bleed... Not good. I cleaned the holds and tapped up my fingers to stop it happening again. I would not make any friends bleeding over those holds. I realised now I probably wouldn't do it with my tapped up fingers as the pocket was too temperamental. I pulled on and couldn't even hold the pocket. I tried again five minutes later and to my surprise and I'd imagine everyone else's I actually topped it! I was happy now. The rest of the day didn't matter anymore, I'd done the one climb that was on my ticklist that would actually be possible for me! But I ought about it for a while and realised I'd nothing to loose now, why not try everything possibly could? Maybe get some more 7a's even? I searched and tried several until I found La Daube (7a) and after a couple goes it was sent, but it obviously wasn't popular as it had hardly any chalk on it... Next I got on L'Araignee (7a) and quickly sent it. By this point I called it a day, I was tried and happy (Also my fingers couldn't really take any more abuse).

Ticks:
Duroxamine 6c
Carnage Assis 7c
La Daube 7a
L'Araignee 7a

All in all it was a fantastic trip and I loved it. Right now I can't think of a place I'd rather be in the world than the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau. I'm looking forward to another trip there in the summer with another group of friends now, but in the meantime I still need to send Ben's Roof (7c+) at Raven Tor! Next up is the second round of the Junior British Bouldering Championships in Glasgow!

I'd like to say thanks to Duncan Fisher and his parents for taking me with them, Nick Reyner and Debbie Corbett for showing us around and giving us beta and anyone else who I might be missing!

CWIF 2013

Those that know me may well be aware that I am not great at being organised. So the fact that I managed to register for CWIF this year before preregistration closed was a good tick in itself!
And I'm glad that I did register in time because this competition seriously deserves the reputation it has gained. Unfortunately I didn't make the semis but I couldn't realistically expect an astounding result while competing against beasts such as Jakob Schubert, Dave Barrans and more!
The qualifying was good fun, I managed to flash loads of blocs but sadly did mess up a few attempts on others which resulted in second or third attempts... The problems were good fun and well set (you couldn't ask for much more!) And separated everyone really well with a variety of different styles. I scored 210 which I was pleased about, although I am a miffed that my result wasn't posted on the site I think I would have been placed 31st in the seniors and 4th in the juniors (In fact I was put on the qualifying results but somehow I changed to a female junior! I'm not sure how that happened but I'm pretty sure I'm not a girl!)
I'm definitely psyched to return next year but much stronger and hopefully do much better! And after watching the semis and the finals I'm more motivated than ever to push and become as strong as possible! Thanks everyone at The Works for putting on a fantastic event.

In two weeks time I will be heading out to Fontainebleau with a group of friends, I've been counting down the days for quite some time! This will be my first time there, and I'm lucky enough to be going with a good crowd and some strong climbers who know the place really well. So hopefully I won't be running around from problem to problem like a child in a toy store! I've got my ticklist ready (Although it does seem a bit adventurous!) and I'm psyched for a great trip!

Finally I'd like to say thanks to Beyond Hope who will now be supporting me with Evolv, PrAna and Metolius! They really are great guys!